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After Midnite
- SUKHUMVIT STREET SCENE REPRISE

William R. ''Will''  Morledge,   News page correspondent (Midnite Hour) and contributing editor -
 book reviews.
Bangkok,
01 May 2008
William R. Morledge

May's Nightlife News
Ask Us - To Graph Or Not To Graph
A Thai Smile......
Graffiti - Bangkok Art Vandals # 31








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         Not too long ago (September of 2004) we did a piece on the long thin line <LINK> -that one-mile section of Sukhumvit Road stretching from Soi 3 to Soi 21 that rocks all night long - as long as one doesn't mind rocking curbside....   
      It may have all started here: this is the top of Sukhumvit Soi 13, and has been an after-hours eat, hang-out, pick-up scene since the old Thermae opened in 1966.   Also known by Bangkok's jaded hands as Farang Khee-Nok Corner - for reasons you may later come to appreciate....

         We thought it was time for a revisit, this time, stirring in a little more history.   We have noted with interest that our 'long thin line' has subsequently been covered by Bangkok Bad Boy <LINK> , and more recently by Bangkok's own Werewolf <LINK>, each referring to the area as the "Miracle Mile" -which just may stick, label-wise.
      The Fantacy Bar still cooks.   Some of you may remember a few years back when the unscrupulous landowners at the corner of Asoke and Sukhumvit unceremoniously crushed the bars at Asoke Corner / Asoke Plaza and sent the bar owners packing.   Refusing to go, the owner of the Fantacy simply moved his chattel out onto the sidewalk - where it remains today.   Closing time 05:00 a.m., providing there are any remaining nite-owl customers.   There are 5 street bars at that intersection now, operating with kerosene tabletop lanterns and ice chests.

         The late-night rolling soup kitchens of course did not start on Sukhumvit Road, nor were expats their first customers.   Nevertheless, when Sukhumvit Road became a nexus of entertainment for farangs in the 1960's, the number and variety of late night curb-side meeting and eating places increased proportionally (in spite of the fact that you could order food all night long at either the Thermae or the Nana Hotel coffee shops.)   
      There are also 5 street bars at the top of Soi Nana (Soi 4 Sukhumvit).   At least two of which are populated by transgenderites.   For the privilege of operating as bars until dawn, each bar owner pays 2,000 baht a month to a BMA official.   Oh, and did we forget to mention that they each pay an additional 5,000 baht each month to Bangkok's Finest?   'Dis Thailan' you know, Suh...'

         The first significantly sized cluster of these Thai-style 'meals on wheels' which catered to the late night expat crowd was around the top of Soi 13.    Being next to both the Thermae Massage Parlor / Coffee Shop and the Miami Hotel, it was an ideal location, location, location.   On the one hand, this stretch of sidewalk attracted the late night crowd coming from the bars and the Thermae, but on the other hand, it also attracted a crowd of notoriously Cheap Charlie's, who were never to be seen inside a bar, and doing their best to see the world on one dollar a day, like their Golden Guide to Southeast Asia handbook said they could.   Coming from the early '60's backpacker crowd ourselves, we are not here to cast the first stone - nevertheless, this was the origins of Soi 13's Nightscene nickname : "Farang Khee Nok Corner".

Who'd 'A Thunk ?

      Thai food?   Here?   (Tasty, we might add - to be found at the top of Soi 11.)


         There is a wide variety of cuisine to be had curbside - from seafood to kebabs to a multitude of Thai and Thai-Isan dishes.   Likewise the bars are reasonably well stocked - several brands of beer and an assortment of local and imported whiskeys - depending on where you choose to sit.
      The beer and food stalls at Soi 11 Sukhumvit wrap around the corner and go on down the Soi a way.

         Nevertheless, the draw, the real draw is, and has always been, the late-night pick-up scene.   Girls who were not bought out of their bar, or who have not scored a customer in their massage parlor, or who are going out for 'seconds' are plentiful throughout the night.   This is where the action is continued once the established Nightscene is closed down by local ordinance (or at least the Men In Too-Tight Uniform's interpretation of same).
      Drinkers and diners just outside the new Thermae Coffee Shop don't seem to mind the traffic fumes from the thronging taxi's that troll the boulevard looking for early morning fares.

         It is inescapably interesting note the inherent contradiction - Bangkok's Finest are busily and fussily enforcing the closing times of the A Go-Go bars, lounges and bar-beers, as well as conducting the occasional urine-drug test and high profile closure of these establishments.   And without missing a beat, they turn on their heel, walk on out to Sukhumvit Road to accept under-the-table payment for allowing street bars to operate until dawn on public property.   Of course, this is a bent nail of historic dimensions; and our flogging it to death in this column will change nothing - it is there; we will partake of it, as suits our whim.
      This shot taken near Soi 11/1 before the arrival of the nightly invasion of nite-owls.




 TOP
Let the May 2008 Follies  begin...
BANKOK EYES' Expat Night Scene.

  PATPONG  I  
MAP
            After two months of furious renovations, the Muzzik Cafe has thrown open the doors and rolled out the red carpet once again.   They've just opened, so their new neon is not up yet - expect that to follow later this month.   Welcome them back to the vicissitudes.
  PATPONG  I  

            We don't know what the Funky Dojo has against putting up some real neon - this new sign, provided by a sponsor, is hardly visible.   Hasn't seemed to hurt business that much, however, as they always seem to have several customers jammed in.   (Located in Soi SuperStar, in case you missed the sign.)
  PATPONG  I  

  PATPONG  II  
MAP
            We don't know, either.   But we'd be willing to bet there will be something there this time next month.   (The Y Not ! appears to be located above the Memphis Queen bar beer.)
  PATPONG  II  

  SOI  COWBOY  
MAP
             The Baccara's installation of soi-side seating just about makes it complete.   Now virtually all the bars on Soi Cowboy have a sidewalk extension protruding out into the soi.   If you are ever there in the day, you can see that the bars literally roll up, or fold up, the sidewalk to let vehicular traffic pass normally.
SOI  COWBOY


 NANA  PLAZA  
MAP
             G-Spot may or may not be the biggest A Go-Go in Bangkok, but it is definitely in the money for biggest sign.   Keep on rockin'.
NANA  PLAZA  

  SOI  KATOEY  
MAP
            The Telephone Pub and The Balcony do about 95% of the business on Soi Katoey.   And how do they do it?   Volume ! (as the used car dealers used to say).   In this case, however, it is true - they have extra tables out to almost the center of the soi.   Works for them.
SOI  KATOEY

  SOI  DEAD  ARTISTS  
MAP
            The Dew Spa & Massage has opened up next to Papa Pub.   Dew Spa (the Thai name) is rumored to be the pet project of a well-known entertainer....   Welcome them to the sharkpool.   
SOI  DEAD  ARTISTS - SOI  33

            The Alice Relaxation Salon is a Massage Parlor (at least they didn't call it a 'Wellness Center'.....).   They were putting the final touches on the renovations when we stuck our head in the other night, and will be opening right about ...... NOW.   Wish them luck as they cast their dice against the pitted wall of fate - and what with all the other massage parlors on the Soi, and them way at the back of Soi Wall Street (in the old Immortal Massage & Spa digs), they are probably going to need it....   "A.T.", the resident expert on all matters "33" advises us that the Alice is relocating in from Sukhumvit Road - it's old location near the new Coyote Mexican food restaurant.
SOI  DEAD  ARTISTS - SOI  33

Door Art Of The Month
Award


                     We should have guessed it would eventually happen - a bar named Tuk Tuk.   They have already had their soft opening, and will make it official in a few days - and from what we saw, it should be a comfortable place to stop in for a brew.   But what with an actual tuk-tuk hanging over your head as you walk by, there was something perverse in us that made us proclaim the Tuk Tuk to be the winner of this month's Door Art Award.   And while we are at it, we should wish them all the best as they venture into this jaded neon jungle.

SOI  DEAD  ARTISTS - SOI  33

            The Nyan Nyan is the latest specialty massage to open in Peep Inn Park - and will likely give the Akane Fashion Massage a run for their money.   This is the third of three massage parlors to open on Soi Dead Artists this last month - where is it all going to end?   Welcome to the nightgames.
SOI  DEAD  ARTISTS - SOI  33

            The New Yuki Hana Japanese Karaoke is now, and may have been for some time, above the Setsu Getsu KKA.   But with this brand-new bold neon hanging out for all to view, there is no longer any question as to who is at the top of those stairs.   Welcome to the fray.
SOI  DEAD  ARTISTS - SOI  33

  WASHINGTON  SQUARE  
MAP
RUMOR CONTROL

Washington Square Gone By January 09 ?

         Rumor has it that the owners (lessees) of the various establishments in Washington Square have already received their eviction notices, and must move out by January 2009.    The vacating of the premises precedes the long-discussed redevelopment of the Square into a hotel and commercial area.

         The Midnight Hour long ago got out of the rumor business, however, this one comes from JN, a regular and reliable source.   This tends to confirm a discussion we had recently with the Huttasat 2 Traditional Massage located there, who have been planning their relocation for some months.   We hope the rumor is false, and would like nothing better than to print a retraction, however, it is, we suspect, only a matter of time.          We will follow up and get back atcha...
-ed.   
02 May 08   
WASHINGTON  SQUARE

            The Manageress of the Prince Of Wales asked us if we would give them a nod this month - and brought this lovely young lady out to pose for a photo.   Who are we to say, 'no'?
WASHINGTON  SQUARE

            The popular noodle shops outside the Studio 22 are worth a stop if you are accustomed to eating local fare on the roadside.
WASHINGTON  SQUARE

  QUEEN'S  PARK  PLAZA  
MAP
            The Pop Eye 2 had it's metal roller doors padlocked firmly to the floor the other night, so technically, we will report them closed.   However, we note that they have been busy these last few months, and suspect this is but a temporary condition.   (We also note their sister bar, the Olive Oyl is still going great guns.)   Get back atcha next month, and confirm one way or the other.
QUEEN'S  PARK  PLAZA -  SOI  22

  SOI  EDEN  
MAP
            If the bars on Soi Eden were conserving electricity last month (and they were), then they must have saved up quite a bit in the process - as the Soi was back to it's Christmas tree mode this month.   Below are the Star Inn and the Absolute 7 Bar in all their neon glory.
SOI  EDEN  -  SOI  7/1

  SOI  TWILIGHT  
MAP
            Maxis is the latest addition to the Soi Twilight Night Entertainment Area.   Welcome them to the neon machine.   
SOI  TWILIGHT





            

- In the LAND OF SMILES -


          This month's "Thai Smile" is awarded to a young lady who used to call Sukhumvit 1 Plaza home.






? Old
BANGKOK NIGHT SCENE
PHOTOS
?


Any old PHOTOS of
Bangkok's Nightlife ?

Please CLICK HERE and send to us for publication.   

Many Thanks,
William R Morledge



            
 Historical Minutiae Dept.

 ASK US (ALMOST ANYTHING 


Of Graff,
And Tacky A Go-Go
SOCIAL COMMENT
REQUIRES 'NO COMMENT'

Hello Boge,

I'm a big fan of Bkk-Eyes   … I love the mix of graff and tacky gogo bars, the whole site feels like an artwork of Jeff Koons.   Like his "Michael & Bubbles" -


How did you came up with this idea to mix Graff and Massage?   Do you paint yourself?

Btw, for the first time the kids can strap themselves with the real shit, check it out at : montanathailand.blogspot.com <LINK>.

Its time for you to put up some quality graff… Here are some flicks..

Keep up the good work!

Best wishes,
Chief-Rocka Shock 1


Hello, Shock,

      Thanks for writing in, and for sending in some of your works.   To answer what has pretty much become a FAQ, I will tailor this reply for general consumption.   No, I do not paint myself (in this sense).   

      The Midnight Hour considers graffiti to be 'social comment', an 'extension' of the Nightscene, and continues to review interesting and thought-provoking pieces put up by others.   As you may have noticed, we have used several graffs of yours in the past, and are including four of those that you have just sent to us.

We remain indebted to you for your generous contribution.

Best,
'Boge' Hartman




? ASK US (ALMOST) ANYTHING !
  • Email bangkokeyes@gmail.com and "ASK" - -   Click Here
  •           We can answer virtually any (reasonable) question on the Expat Night Entertainment Scene in Bangkok - be it Historical or very recent.   Send us an e-mail and we will do our best to answer you soonest.
    'Boge' Hartman
    Historical Research
    * Zootramp Publications




    VICARIOUS ART CRIMES   # 31

    MIDNITE HOUR's

    GRAFFITI IN THE NEWS

    American Graffiti

    - FAMOUS GRAFFITO MAKES HISTORY

    Kilroy enshrined.   An engraving of Kilroy on the World War II Monument in Washington, D. C.

          In 1946 the American Transit Association, through its radio program, 'Speak to America', sponsored a nationwide contest to find the REAL Kilroy, offering a prize of a real trolley car to the person who could prove himself to be the genuine article.   Almost 40 men stepped forward to make that claim, but only James Kilroy from Halifax, Massachusetts had evidence of his identity.

          Kilroy was a 46-year old shipyard worker during the war.   He worked as a checker at the Fore River Shipyard in Quincy.   His job was to go around and check on the number of rivets completed.   Riveters were on piecework and got paid by the rivet.

          Kilroy would count a block of rivets and put a check mark in semi-waxed lumber chalk, so the rivets wouldn't be counted twice.   When Kilroy went off duty, the riveters would erase the mark.

          Later on, an off-shift inspector would come through and count the rivets a second time, resulting in double pay for the riveters.   One day Kilroy's boss called him into his office.   The foreman was upset about all the wages being paid to riveters, and asked him to investigate. It was then that he realized what had been going on.

          The tight spaces he had to crawl in to check the rivets didn't lend themselves to lugging around a paint can and brush, so Kilroy decided to stick with the waxy chalk.   He continued to put his checkmark on each job he inspected, but added Kilroy WAS HERE in king-sized letters next to the check, and eventually added the sketch of the chap with the long nose peering over the fence and that became part of the Kilroy message.   Once he did that, the riveters stopped trying to wipe away his marks.

          Ordinarily the rivets and chalk marks would have been covered up with paint.   With war on, however, ships were leaving the Quincy Yard so fast that there wasn't time to paint them.

          As a result, Kilroy's inspection 'trademark' was seen by thousands of servicemen who boarded the troopships the yard produced.   His message apparently rang a bell with the servicemen, because they picked it up and spread it all over Europe and the South Pacific.   Before the war's end, 'Kilroy' had been here, there, and everywhere on the long haul to Berlin and Tokyo.

          To the unfortunate troops outbound in those ships, however, he was a complete mystery; all they knew for sure was that some jerk named Kilroy had 'been there first.'   As a joke, U.S. servicemen began placing the graffiti wherever they landed, claiming it was already there when they arrived.

          Kilroy became the U.S. super-GI who had always 'already been' wherever GIs went.   It became a challenge to place the now familiar logo in the most unlikely places imaginable (it is said to be atop Mt. Everest, the Statue of Liberty, the underside of the Arch De Triumphe, and even scrawled in the dust on the surface of the moon.)

          And as the war went on, the legend grew.   Underwater demolition teams routinely sneaked ashore on Japanese-held islands in the Pacific to map the terrain for the coming invasions by U.S. troops (and thus, presumably, were the first GIs there).   On one occasion, however, they reported seeing enemy troops painting over the Kilroy logo!

          In 1945, an outhouse was built for the exclusive use of Roosevelt, Stalin, and Churchill at the Potsdam conference.   The first person inside was Stalin, who emerged and asked his aide (in Russian), 'Who is Kilroy?'

          To help prove his authenticity in 1946, James Kilroy brought along officials from the shipyard and some of the riveters.   He won the trolley car, which he gave to his nine children as a Christmas gift and set it up as a playhouse in the Kilroy front yard in Halifax, Massachusetts.

             So, now you know the story (and as long as you don't forget why they call them 'stories', you should be alright).

    (Sources: various emails, and   Wikipedia <LINK> )



    [ Check out Bangkok's own source of evil spraycans, etc, at Montana Land <link>. ]

    - And now to Bangkok's own brand of Graffiti....


    Graffiti #218
    Shockkkkkkkkk
    8 ft. high x 18 ft. (approx)

    Midnite Hour remains grateful to SHOCK for Art and Photos !

    Graffiti #219
    Shockpetchab
    8 ft. high x 16 ft. (approx)

    Midnite Hour remains grateful to SHOCK for Art and Photos !

    Graffiti #220
    Shockch3
    6 ft high x 25 ft (approx)

    Midnite Hour remains grateful to SHOCK for Art and Photos !

    Graffiti #221
    Shockrus
    8 ft. high x 15 ft. (approx)

    Midnite Hour remains grateful to SHOCK for Art and Photos !

    Graffiti #222
    Time of Sands
    10 ft. high x 28 ft.



    Graffiti #223
    Let No Wall Go Untagged
    (Two Storey Dwelling).


    Graffiti #224
    Son of Klong
    7 ft high x 13 ft



    GRAFFITI ARCHIVES :
    Graffiti, Graffiti , and more Graffiti - Bangkok's original and ONLY graffiti Site !


       The MIDNITE HOUR Graffiti Page is prepared by Staff Contributor "Boge" Hartman.

    (Boge's photo, above, is not a graffiti per-se, although there are those who have insinuated....   - Ed)


           
  • Email me- Click Here
  •  --- Datzit Fernow

    William R. Morledge

    Copyright 2002 - 2008, BANGKOK EYES / bangkokeyes.com
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